{"id":10661,"date":"2026-08-04T05:11:51","date_gmt":"2026-08-04T05:11:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/interspacemusic.com\/blog\/a-historia-radical-da-moda-na-musica-sul-africana\/"},"modified":"2026-08-04T05:11:51","modified_gmt":"2026-08-04T05:11:51","slug":"a-historia-radical-da-moda-na-musica-sul-africana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/interspacemusic.com\/blog\/pt-br\/a-historia-radical-da-moda-na-musica-sul-africana\/","title":{"rendered":"A Hist\u00f3ria Radical da Moda na M\u00fasica Sul-Africana"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ao longo de gera\u00e7\u00f5es, artistas negros sul-africanos usaram a roupa para resistir \u00e0s expectativas, transformando o estilo pessoal em uma forma de afirma\u00e7\u00e3o cultural.<\/p>\n

Spoek Mathambo e a Cena Alternativa<\/h2>\n

H\u00e1 dezesseis anos, o rapper, produtor e cineasta Spoek Mathambo<\/strong> apareceu na capa da The Fader<\/a><\/strong>. Ele usava um conjunto predominantemente preto: uma camisa branca abotoada at\u00e9 o topo, um cachecol preto e dourado contornando as bordas de uma jaqueta preta, e \u00f3culos de arma\u00e7\u00e3o quadrada que j\u00e1 tinham se tornado um item b\u00e1sico da est\u00e9tica hipster.<\/p>\n

Mathambo foi uma voz central no rap e na m\u00fasica eletr\u00f4nica sul-africana ao longo dos anos 2000. Nos anos seguintes, sua identidade sonora e visual embalou in\u00fameras publica\u00e7\u00f5es e a infraestrutura cultural de uma Joanesburgo que tamb\u00e9m revelou artistas como Dirty Paraffin<\/strong> e Big FKN Gun<\/strong>. Por um momento, uma cena amplamente ignorada pela m\u00eddia sul-africana mainstream encontrou um acolhimento que abarcava sua amplitude de esquisitices.<\/p>\n

Como metade do Sweat.X<\/strong> ao lado de Markus Wormstorm<\/strong>, Mathambo se inclinava para cores neon vibrantes e cal\u00e7as justas, contrabalan\u00e7adas por chap\u00e9us fedora e \u00f3culos escuros. O visual ressoava com um p\u00fablico que n\u00e3o dependia do r\u00e1dio para descobrir m\u00fasica.<\/p>\n

Um fio condutor comum, moldado pela geografia, tend\u00eancias internacionais e concep\u00e7\u00f5es fluidas de si, era mais improvisado do que codificado. O BLK JKS<\/strong>, que estampou sua pr\u00f3pria capa da Fader dois anos antes, inclinava-se ao punk com um toque de cool pantsula. O baterista Tshepang Ramoba<\/strong> canalizava um urro heavy metal enquanto tamb\u00e9m atuava como DJ, pesquisador e curador de m\u00fasica eletr\u00f4nica do norte de Gauteng. Os guitarristas Linda Buthelezi<\/strong> e Mpumi Mcata<\/strong> se entrela\u00e7avam em transmiss\u00f5es r\u00edtmicas deslocadas, injetando negritude de volta ao rock and roll com um trabalho de guitarra interiorano que bebia de lendas costeiras como Madala Kunene<\/strong>, Mfaz’omnyama<\/strong> e Phuzekhemisi<\/strong>. O baixista Molefi Makananise<\/strong> era a presen\u00e7a mais suave, constante e observadora.<\/p>\n

BoyzNBucks e a Virada para o Streetwear<\/h2>\n

Enquanto a roupa como est\u00e9tica informava as cenas alternativas, os artistas que colocavam o ‘drip’ diretamente na m\u00fasica estavam se movendo em uma forma\u00e7\u00e3o diferente. Siyabonga Ngwekazi<\/strong>, conhecido como Scoop Makhathini<\/strong>, \u00edcone da juventude cujo trabalho na TV e no r\u00e1dio ajudou a elevar muitas cenas, lembra que o que o coletivo BoyzNBucks<\/strong> fazia era ‘streetwear de alt\u00edssimo n\u00edvel’.<\/p>\n

‘N\u00f3s n\u00e3o \u00e9ramos Louis Vuitton, n\u00e3o \u00e9ramos Gucci. O Riky foi por esse caminho, mas n\u00f3s, como BoyzNBucks, est\u00e1vamos mais na moda de rua, que ainda era de alt\u00edssimo n\u00edvel porque voc\u00ea n\u00e3o conseguia essas marcas, n\u00e3o conseguia essas roupas a menos que viajasse para fora do pa\u00eds’, disse Ngwekazi. ‘Foi quando Riky Rick<\/a> se tornou artista que a percep\u00e7\u00e3o das pessoas mudou.’<\/p>\n

Riky Rick<\/strong> dominou essa mudan\u00e7a de percep\u00e7\u00e3o e construiu uma carreira em cima disso. H\u00e1 uma d\u00e9cada, ele cantava: ‘Sidlukotini kwedini\/ cava le jean kwedini\/ cava le slumber boy\/ sidl’ ilast number boy’ (somos comedores de algod\u00e3o, garoto\/ olha esse jeans, garoto\/ estamos no mais alto padr\u00e3o, garoto). Os versos estabeleciam hierarquia e o diferenciavam, sinalizando que o estilo dele era o mais pesado.<\/p>\n

Ao abra\u00e7ar a alta moda e injetar refer\u00eancias \u00e0 Gucci em suas letras, ele abriu um caminho que muitos depois seguiram.<\/p>\n

A Filosofia de Estilo de Riky Rick<\/h2>\n

Em uma entrevista naquela \u00e9poca, Riky Rick explicou sua abordagem em rela\u00e7\u00e3o \u00e0 roupa: ‘Eu tento explorar diferentes vibra\u00e7\u00f5es, diferentes sensa\u00e7\u00f5es de acordo com o ambiente em que estou. \u00c0s vezes, simplesmente coloco coisas de que gosto, talvez fique bonito ou algo assim. Mas sempre tento seguir conceitos, especialmente em eventos importantes.’<\/p>\n

Ele continuou: ‘Toda a jornada para n\u00f3s come\u00e7ou com t\u00eanis. Eu cresci na \u00c1ustria, e o que acontecia era que havia muita \u00eanfase em marcas como Tommy Hilfiger e Timberlands. Isso foi quando eu estava mais ou menos na quinta s\u00e9rie. Havia muita \u00eanfase nisso e na Lacoste. Eram marcas grandes na Europa. Eu sempre quis ser um daqueles garotos que podiam comprar aquilo. Mas uma coisa que meu pai sempre garantiu era que sempre tiv\u00e9ssemos um par de t\u00eanis irado.’<\/p>\n

‘Quando entramos no rap, comecei a ter oportunidades de explorar diferentes partes do mundo, explorar materiais, por isso uso o algod\u00e3o como algo importante para mim, e o que significa estar confort\u00e1vel na pr\u00f3pria pele al\u00e9m dos t\u00eanis. Para n\u00f3s, pessoas negras, nossa representa\u00e7\u00e3o mais insana \u00e9 atrav\u00e9s dos sapatos. A gente fica olhando para baixo o tempo todo: que t\u00eanis \u00e9 esse, que t\u00eanis \u00e9 aquele. Quando comecei a viajar para todo lugar, os t\u00eanis n\u00e3o significavam tanto. Tudo gira em torno dos acess\u00f3rios, e a\u00ed eu entrei nessa.’<\/p>\n

Uma colabora\u00e7\u00e3o entre o rapper e Hugh Masekela<\/a><\/strong> estava nos planos, mas nunca se concretizou porque o veterano faleceu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Um olhar sobre como m\u00fasicos sul-africanos, de Spoek Mathambo a Riky Rick, usaram a moda para afirmar identidade e desafiar normas.","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":8220,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[6934],"tags":[16614,16617,16620,16623,7134,16626],"class_list":["post-10661","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-culture-lifestyle-pt-br","tag-blk-jks-pt-br","tag-boyznbucks-pt-br","tag-fashion-pt-br","tag-riky-rick-pt-br","tag-south-african-music-pt-br","tag-spoek-mathambo-pt-br","cs-entry","cs-video-wrap"],"yoast_head":"\nA 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